Buying a new LCD- Guide

Lately computer users have become more and more interested (should we say hysteric?) to buy a LCD monitor, but with the variety of different manufacturers and models on the marketplace deciding to pick one can be quite a dilemma for some. Therefore this guide is written to answer some of the frequent questions appearing for a fresh user endeavoring into the world of LCDs.


1.Before buying a new LCD you have to decide what will be the main destination of the LCD : movies, office, web, graphic design, games. Based on this we will choose the perfect LCD for you later on. Needless to say, our budget plays a major role too.

2. Choosing the size
Everybody should know that LCD monitors work optimally only on their native resolution(s). What this means? In a nutshell, a LCD that has a 1280x1024 native resolution is going to display lower resolutions (i.e., 1024x768) in one of the following two ways:

# Or the information showed is reduced to the center of the screen in, the space what remains to the native resolution is competed with black lines. What is showed is clear but not very aesthetic, should we say.
# The alternative what we have to replace these black lines it is zoom in ( interpolating) , As a result of this, the picture can be viewed on the whole LCD screen. This method works better for photos than for text and images with a high detail where this process can result so-called “pixilated objects” (unwanted blocky and/or grainy artifacts appear due to the image detraction). The best results can be obtained by a monitor that applies a technique known as anti-aliasing when resizing the image, but only few LCD monitors can actually accomplish this (at the time of writing this sticky.)


“What is the best choice?” you ask. In short, make sure that your system is able to run movies, games at least on medium quality on the LCD’s native resolution. Also, you should not forget that a movie ripped in a 600x320 resolution will look very poor on a LCD that has, say, 1680x1050 native resolution.


Here’s a comprehensive list of standards:
15" ----- 1024 x 768 ----- pixel pitch 0.297mm
17" ----- 1280 x 1024 ---- pixel pitch 0.264mm
17" Wide - 1280 x 768 ---- pixel pitch 0.264mm
18" ------ 1280 x 1024 --- pixel pitch 0.28 mm
19" ------ 1280 x 1024 --- pixel pitch 0.294mm
19" Wide - 1440 x 900 ---- pixel pitch 0.285mm
20" ------ 1600 x 1200 --- pixel pitch 0.255mm
20" Wide - 1680 x 1050 --- pixel pitch 0.258mm
21" ------ 1600 x 1200 --- pixel pitch 0.270mm
21" Wide - 1680 x 1050 --- pixel pitch 0.270mm
22" Wide - 1680 x 1050 --- pixel pitch 0.282mm
23" Wide - 1920 x 1200 --- pixel pitch 0.258mm
24" Wide - 1920 x 1200 --- pixel pitch 0.270mm
26" Wide - 1920 x 1200 --- pixel pitch 0.287mm
27" Wide - 1920 x 1200 --- pixel pitch 0.303mm
28" Wide - 1920 x1200 --- pixel pitch 0.309mm
30" Wide - 2560 x 1600 --- pixel pitch 0.250mm


3. Type of the Panel. Each type shortly explained:

TN film (Twisted Nematic)
- The most widely dominant on the market.
- Low manufacturing cost and this equals to a significantly lower price.
- The horizontal and vertical maximum view angles are pretty low. The specified view angels are around 170 grades but the measuring tests unfortunately aren’t accurate, therefore, unfortunately in reality this range is around 130-140 grades.
- The response times are very good
- Dead pixels are displayed as white points, the blocked ones an RGB color, very frequently these are green.
- The black isn't so dark as at the VA panels.
- The color support is reduced, only 6 bit through Frame Rate Control (Dithering) it is obtained 16,2 million of colors and even 16, 7 million of colors for the newer types.. The picture below is a real-world exemplification of this aforementioned concept:

-These panels are known as optimal for gaming.

IPS (In Plane Switching)
- Better view angels than TN panels, around 170.
- Better color support than the TN panels (8 bit real, which is akin to 16.7 mil colors without Dithering)
- Higher response time than at the TN panels.
- Dead pixels remain black forever.
- Low contrast ratio, even very low in some cases, so the black is lessen black. Compared to the PVA panels this kind of black is barely a sort of very dark grey).

Super-IPS (S-IPS)
S-IPS sports the same attributes as the IPS but accompanied with a few extras.
- These display the best colors between the TFTs.
- An improved response time.
- The contrast ratio still isn't good enough, and from a side view the black appears violet, from front no problem.
- View Angels around 176.
- They are recommended as the perfect choice for graphics and web.

VA (Vertical Alignment) Technologies :

MVA (Multidomain Vertical Alignment)
- compromise between IPS and TN.
- The colors are better than on the TN but worse than on IPS panels.
- View Angels are also better than TN but inferior to IPS.
- Contrast ratio is increased so the black is.. almost black.
- Dead pixels remain black.
- The response time is worse than on either IPS or TN panels
- Due to the intensification of the black color some of the details with a lower contrast ratio can be lost. It depends very much by the used settings.
-These are on 8 bit.

Premium-MVA (P-MVA) or Super MVA (S-MVA)
Just like the MVA panels with some differences:
- Response times a little better but still worst than at the TN panels.
- Overdrive is used so watch out, colors are lost. Instead of 8 bit (real) we have 6 bit with dithering (FRC).

PVA (Patterned VA)
Just like MVA with the following differences:
- View angels are a little better— approximately 170.
- Higher contrast rate than on MVAs. It is 8 bit.

Super-PVA (S-PVA)
This is the previously mentioned PVA sporting general improvements:
- "Magic Speed" is present ( Samsung equivalent to the Overdrive), what improves the response time.
- The colors are very close to the SIPS.
- View angels are around 178 grade.
The ones from the *VA categories are recommended for movies, but the technological evolution turns these deals good for all.



General attributes too look out regardless of the chosen panel are the following:

>> The response time— the lower the better.
Two kind of response time are mentioned by manufacturers:
The first one is called Black to White (B2W), which quantifies the time needed to the pixel to go from black to white and back to black (or from 0% to 100%). This one is used in industry and generally not specified because it is understood by itself per se.
The second one is the Grey to Grey time (G2G). This technique measures the required time for a pixel to go from a grey type to another and back to the original (from 10% to 90% and back, therefore, this usually results in lower times). Practically a 2ms G2G it is equal to a value around 5 ms and 10 ms true; of course this applies only to quality LCDs. It can be said that all that is under true 10 ms, the human eye doesn't detect as leaving traces (ghosting).

These aforementioned problems appear because the crystal cells do not emit the proper light, but they modulate the light that gets through the panel (what comes from the fluorescent lamps behind the panel); the CRT monitors do not emit proper light through the passing of the radiation of the electron cannons to the visible specter by a phosphor filter.

The monitors that are emitting proper light (CRT, Plasma) there exists a specific material on the surface of the panel (phosphor), which emits the light that is easy to see from high viewing angles. On the LCD monitors the light that gets through a pixel has multiple places of coming because the light from the neighbor pixels get involved too and, ultimately, cause color distortion. Therefore, the best is to test a LCD with your own eyes at a show room or at your friend’s place before purchasing. This is crucial.


>> The contrast ratio and the brightness should be as high as they can be (specified in values).
Brightness is measured in candle / meter square (cd/m2). Brightness isn't given by the effective pixels but by a luminescent plate situated behind the back of the panel and the liquid crystal, and due to this the range does not differs from model to model. Usually it is between 250 and 300 cd/m2.
The contrast it is between 350:1 at the old LCDs and 3000:1 dynamic for the new ones.


>> The color support should be high as it can be.
Mainly search for reviews published by known sites where the monitors are being tested with professional tools— reporting how much of the NTSC is covered. It depends by the main usage purpose of the monitor and the requirements of each of us.
The human eye sees something like these:


And a monitor from a very good category says that it covers 97% of the NTSC. The most of the LCD's cover is between 72 and 92 :


Here are the 92 percent:

>> The uniforming of the panel.
Again here you will have to rely on those that have tested the monitor in great detail because some type of monitors can have serious issues, and it is advised that you avoid those. An example of these:


>> The View Angels – rule of thumb: the higher the better.
As previously mentioned, the low view angels can be a problem because maybe the person next to you cannot see the movie… Again it is more advised to view these aspects of the monitor live before you buy it.
>> Connectivity with the video card.
Most of LCD monitors use connectivity with DVI-D or DBVI-I. The usage of the DVI assures a clear signal without interferences and without analog to digital conversion, which generates some delays. Sometimes the monitor comes without the necessary cable and, therefore, you are required to buy one. You can also opt for DVI to VGA adapter.

>> Backlight bleeding.

What this means? Generally, the margins of the screen are lightened differently, a thing that you can observe easily in a dark room and with a black background. Below is a heavy example of backlight leakage, this is present on the Dell 2005FPW.


To check if a monitor struggles with this aforementioned problem search pictures via forums and search engines. Preferably, the monitor settings not at default, like contrast 100%, because this way all of them are having huge bleed.

Oh, and we should not forget: the picture must be made by a photo camera and lights off, not print-screens, as a user put them on the CG. :Angry: If you can, ask the user to regulate the camera in a way that the picture stands the closest to the reality.

>> Banding.
This problem can be easily spotted with the help of the programs like Nokia Monitor Test. As the old saying goes, a picture is worth a million words. So let’s see the image!


>> The lag compared to the CRT.
Here again the best thing to do is to see independent reviews.
Example:


>> Consumed power.
Some models tend to consume more than 100W and these can be followed by a refuse of your UPS to start.These is less important but can make some had ackes .

>> Dead pixels- What assurances do we have?
Some company's can allow a zero dead-pixel policy, others are changing the monitor in function how many of your precious pixels have died.It is a must to ask from where you buy the Precious what is the policy of the company in these delicate question.

>> Ignoring the marketing gimmicks like Vista Compatibility.
This is a huge bullshit from my point of view. In English this means that you can use the big Operating System Microsoft or a dedicated application of this, instead of pushing the buttons on the LCD to calibrate, change the settings of the monitor. Doh! So, if it still requires some clarifications: each monitor works very fine with any OS – even Vista, even if is not written on it as “VISTA Compatible.” Meh, I think that the little bald man from the marketing section was suffering some sleeplessness

General information
• The life of a LCD it 5 years with a daily usage
• HDCP (High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection) is a must have if you want to watch movies in digital format (HD-DVD, BluRay), that is going to be encrypted. With these you will have not only a monitor with the ability of HDCP, but license too, and the tools.
• NEC introduced CableComp technology that compensates the loss suffered by long cables or weak signal(s). This way you will be able to use DVI cables that are offering a support for resolution of 1600x1200 for a 20m distance; 1280x1024 at a 30 m distance; and VGA on 30m distance. Cool, I can now give to the neighbors some of my signals.
• If you want to mount the monitor on the wall search if it offers VESA support. This type of support comes truly handy.
• Some monitors can be rotated vertically because this way they look “cooler.”

• A must see is the standards of TCO. At least a 03 TCO is good.
• The refresh rate on LCDs isn't the same with the CRTs. Many of the LCDs is blocked on 60HZ and forcing a higher refresh rate will cause a much worse image quality as the monitor will be forced to display what not meant to do. What I have observed by using my eyes the quality of the display doesn't improves by raising the refresh rate and your eyes won’t feel any difference at all. Another useful thing to know is that if on your video card the V-Sync isn't activated the card will show how many frames it can at a game (for example 300). In these cases the monitor may not be able to maintain the step with the card, so there is possibility of artifacts appearing, ghosting, a sensation that the image is too fast. Anything above 60 fps isn't recommended. Practically, I hadn't observed it so I wait until someone confirms it. I will complete this section when the time comes.
• Some monitors are sporting extras like USB ports included, or speakers, TV-tuners or even a mirror function (glossy). The last part is recommended especially for girls because you just close the monitor and you have a huge 22" mirror to prepare yourself. Another part is the design SF, color, tastes, style.

• And the last words: “What should you buy?” ...Well how tight your budget is right now? Have you decided it for what you will mainly use the monitor? Can your system hold its native resolution adequately? Have you seen ‘in live’ some monitors that are in your chosen category? Did you read reviews, do you know any friends or enemies that own exactly that model? Can you test it before you buy it with Nokia Monitor? What assures the seller in case of a/more DeadPixel(s) ?
Do you have HDTV movies or at least DVD so that you will not see a sea of pixels on a monster resolution?


If yes and it exists at least an idea it is good. Don't let yourself seduced by marketing, search and gather information from multiple (and different) places you can before you actually purchasing something. And one more last thing for 3DSMAX you should not buy a LCD because the technology is still behind the CRTs for this area, so it sucks. At the rest of the applications LCDs are managing quite well.
All in all, best of luck with the actual process of shopping and buying.

Also for any more questions don't hesitate to ask the DevHardware community.

The above guide was originally written by Conrad_QS on XPC.ro forum (a Romanian forum), so some respect and kudos goes to him. With the granted permission of the aforementioned author I had fully translated, expanded, and reformulated some of it.
And we must not forget madhyena for some post editing and correcting my English knowledge so some respect and kudos to him

Other websites to gather information from:


www.google.com - Your best friend
www.xtrempc.ro/forum
http://forum.computergames.ro
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/other/display/lcd-testmethods_4.html#sect1
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1039222
http://www.arenait.net/2006/09/09/69/
http://www.monitoarelcd.ro/tft/lcd-versus-crt.html
http://www.d-silence.com/feature.php?id=249/
http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/specs.html
http://www.devhardware.com/forums/

Great job Yeti! And not to be rude, but if we could have another member edit the English of your posts that would be great. You have done a good job but there are a few things that could be fixed.

Also, why are LCD's bad for 3DSMAX?

LCD's are bad for 3DSMAx because these program works with a color depth up to 64 bit , and if you had read the guide above you already know that the LCD's show only a 6 bit or 8 bit color depth so the image showed by the LCD will be less acurate and difference's will occur between what you want to make and what you will make.The people working in these domain know more about these and they prefer the CRTs...
Maybe in the future these will change...

Very nice guide there Yeti, it makes for some interesting reading.

Now all we need is a guide on which manufacturers are best to purchase from and it's all good.....

Of course we all know that LG's rule!
Samsung's are also good.
22" monitors are pretty much the best price/size ratio at the moment.

Hell, I think I've sorted it out myself lol.

Yes, we should have some members post pros and cons of different monitors that are out there today...

great guide yeti! thank you!

These can be pretty hard because they are so many LCD's and again it depends for what do you use the LCD...but if anyone has a question about one type of LCD we will be here

And about that ranking for the manufacturers...these also it is hard and not accurate because mainly it is the really good manufacturers and the less good one. Maybe a list of recommended and not recommended manufacturers can be realized.
Also if we make a ranking that could induce the people to think that for example a LG monitor is superior to a Samsung one. Well these depends very much by the model of the manufacturer.

LE: Corrected , thanks for the remark

Stickied. Nice contribution.

Yeti ,man, you stated that the IPS and S-IPS panel matrix for LCD monitors had better resonse times than the TN moinitors. (reread your post if you don't believe me) From what I've read it's the opposite. TN's = fast response and low input lag +..... & IPS=better gammut, color ,slower response than the TN +....... This is based on reading articles, forums etc. note: I have not spent a great deal of time physically judging two separate monitors (e.g. one IPS and the other a TN), so If the response time that you wrote about is what you personally noticed and believe please respond as I'm in the monitor buying process, and if I was wrong I need to rethink my buy (concerning TN, VA, IPS), oh and don't worry --I'll 'look' at them before I buy my very own.
I could be wrong as what I'm saying is basically for the inherent traits of the panels, so each monitor, be it TN or IPS is different, (so a particular IPS 'could' be faster than a TN, but I stay with my previous statement. If you know of an S-IPS monitor that is better than ...lets say the Sammy 226CW (which I'm thinking of buying) in terms of response, color quality (I'll have to mention price- it's worth 340 euros !!! in my country ) I would be happy if you stated the model, just not the first one that pops out of your head but one that you seriously think is the best. (price tag included in thoughts )
I need a 20-22inch wide- and I'm only buying this first LCD because of the 'wide' factor. I could settle for 19" wide, it's just that they're forcing the better quality ones to be bigger. Fast response is needed because I'll be gaming 99% of time and I know to be extremely picky- no backlight bleed, dead pixels... Color quality(deep darks, good contrast, vivid colors is VERY important to me- coming from a solid 6-year-old CRT). Exterior, camera, usb, and other shitte is absolutely not needed. The ugliest one if you will. I'm tall- 205mm so a bad vertical angle 'could' prove to be a problem for me. I know there might not be a monitor out there (near perfect to CRT standards) without having the price of a proffessional monitor- >500$ - this price is exaggerated as well- I don't have that kind of money- having in mind that what you think is cheap will be pricier where I'm from.
*******I know that what I wrote might not belong in this thread but, I don't want the hundred buy this, no, buy that crap when forumers start bangin' about. I need one or two to choose from with explanations why and good/ bad sides.
Beg you and thank you

Could you quote cause I fail to find that specific part where I said that IPS's are better at Response time

I reread it and it seems I had mistaken 'high response time' for good/ fast/ etc. instead of 'taking long to complete' . Yeah, pretty darn stupid.

Anyway, now that I have your attention.... could you possibly tell me about 'my' actual problem. The thing about the monitor.... yeeah, I know this isn't the thread where it should have been placed, BUT for the reasons I have already stated I would like to know which is the best LCD or CRT monitor out there that has the following characteristics (I love it when I'm all technical
1.wide, at least 19", possilbly 20"-22", no 24" needed(I'll buy my own TV ,thank you)
2.excellent colour
3.great black and dark tones
4.fast response- 2ms g-2-g ; <=5ms b-2-b
5.great contrast
6.solid brightness
7.extremely ugly, so it can suit the rest of my PC :@
6.ergonomical, spermicidal and whatnot so it suits my size (considering vertical distortion ---getting technical again)
8.consider price $$$, but not so much (for the abilites- I guess there's not a cheap one out there)

again, plead you & thank you

*forgot to mention backlight bleeding, I REALLY HATE THAT

For your problem I can say to go for the Samsung 216BW (or more known as 223BW in some places) or the Samsung 2232BW or even a little more $ needed but the Dell 2007WFP if you want a solid panel with good colors. (However it has a lower response times). Pick one of them.....
PS: Sorry for the late response.