Building A System from Scratch, Part I - RAM, modem, and case
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If the motherboard you intend to buy takes PC2700 to PC3200 DDR RAM, ensure that you buy modules that fall within this range, and beware of buying EEC RAM, which is intended for servers and will usually not be picked up by a desktop machine. This may sound like basic stuff, but I've known experienced people that have several successful systems under their belts make these mistakes, and if it's your first time, it's even easier to make a wrong choice in the buying stage.
Memory is one area where big brand names will win hands down against cheaper, generic memory. Kingston, Crucial and Corsair are all well respected names in the RAM arena and are likely to be far more compatible than cheaper unbranded chips. Many RAM manufacturers' websites, such Crucial, feature an online tool for assessing which memory is likely to the most compatible with the system you intend to put together, as do many component retailers, such as Dabs.com.
If you do not intend to make use of an external ADSL modem, and feel that dial-up Internet access is an acceptable form of connecting with the outside world, check to see whether the motherboard has a modem riser on it. A modem riser is a small, normally brown socket somewhere near the PCI and AGP slots; if it has one, buy a compatible modem, as this can save your PCI slots for things like the sound card, lower-end graphics cards, network cards, and additional USB/firewire cards. With the increase in the popularity of broadband and the prolific use of USB dial-up modems, these ports are becoming rarer and rarer.
Because a case is on display, so to speak, you can make a real statement about yourself and what your PC is used for through your choice of case. There is a real diversity in the appearance, design and specification of available choices, so this is an area that you will have to make your own way in. There are some things to look out for, however, and some companies that excel. For example, cases often come with cheap PSUs as part of the deal; be wary of these because unbranded, generic power supplies often have short life spans that end with a loud crack and a puff of smoke. It is better to seek out a case that doesn't come with a PSU and source one yourself.
One thing that is often overlooked when choosing a case is airflow. The optimum airflow through a computer case is air in through the front, diagonally up through the case across the motherboard, and out of the back of the case, so try to choose one with a grille at the front, bottom area of the case. Fortunately, most cases come with a fan already fitted at the top, rear of the case just below the power supply unit, as this is the optimal position if you just have the one case fan.
Think about the size of the case you want to get. There may be limits to the size of the tower unit that you can store in your office or wherever you plan to use your PC, but bear in mind that the bigger a case is, the easier it will be to work with. Also check the form factor of both the case and the motherboard; the commonest type at the moment is ATX, but ensure that they are both the same whichever one you go for.
Companies that make fans and cooling devices also produce cases that are of a high standard of quality and contribute to your overall cooling solution. Coolermaster and Thermaltake are excellent examples. If I were buying a case right now, it would be the Thermaltake Shark, a product that not only looks fantastic, but also is produced to a very high quality and I know from experience, is very easy to work on (or in, as the case may be).
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