WC n00b ?'s

I'm looking to start a water cooling project some time soon, but I had a few questions. I've read through the basics, I know what parts I need, but I don't really know what brands of parts are good. The guide that's posted is about 4 years old and I'm sure that in the meantime many companies have gotten their act together and maybe a few aren't as good as they used to be, so I figured I'd ask for some advice.

I guess the first question I have is what brand cpu block is going to be cheap (preferably under $40) but still pretty decent and needs to fit a 478.

Second, do people still recommend auto parts (heater cores) for radiators or are there better direct fit options nowadays?

Third, what ID is recommended for tubing, and do you pick out parts to match the tubing or tubing to match the parts, or just whatever works out as long as everything matches? The nozzles are measured by OD and have to match the tubing's ID, right?

Pumps are kind of a mystery to me, I have no idea how to even start shopping for one...

That's about it. Any feedback would be much appreciated.

I guess I should add that I intend a single loop, only 2 blocks; CPU and NB. NB might not even be necessary, but I want to make sure it'll OC stable. I would like to work in the ram as well, but I'm trying to keep it low budget in case I end up blowing it and scrapping the whole project. The graphics card is a Radeon 9800p with a Zalman VF700-AlCu, so I really don't need to WC that since I'm not trying to game on this rig, and that cooler keeps it at a nice temp even on silent mode.

I guess my loop will look something like this:

Res >> pump >> cpu >> nb >> rad

that right?

I found this cpu block that looks good to me, what the heck do I know though? I like the price:
http://www.directron.com/tdx478.html

Nowadays jet impingement blocks (like the TDX) are generally frowned upon by the elitist people because they don't cool dual/quad core CPUs very well, but since you're looking for a block for 478 it'd probably be quite a good thing to go for.

Also, since you're on 478, what chipset is being cooled? Because, seriously, that's probably really a necessary thing to water cool.. My 875P gets by fine on the stock passive heatsink ASUS gave it, with the air flow from a fan over my RAM (which is all you need for memory by the way) it stays plenty cool enough.

As far as alternative blocks go, XSPC have an X20 Delta V2 block that kicks almost as much ass as the D-tek Fuzion, but costs significantly less. But there are a lot of blocks to choose from..

As far as pumps, I have no idea, I just went with whatever was big and on ebay at the time..

And for rads, heater cores are still good, and cheap, but there are nice ones you can get that fit cases now.. I didn't look into them though because they were much too expensive for my taste

It's an 865PE, probably won't need any crazy cooling then, eh? Good, that's one less block I need to buy.

Might be good to go with this one in case I decide to move the WC setup to my main rig I won't have to get a new block.


Anyway, quick pump question... If it says it's a 12V pump, then it most likely means that you can plug it into the computer's PSU and the AC ones, well obviously plug into the wall for power. Is this correct?

Correct

And 865PE really doesn't make much heat at all, it's PAT that really heats them up, and 865PE won't have that enabled unless you're doing some weird hackery Put a fan over the memory and don't worry about it.. I don't, even at 1.8v vAGP

What's your budget?

Personally I would avoid jet impingement for the reasons that snod mentioned before. Get something like a swiftech apogee gt it won't be too much more and if you upgrade to a dual core or something soon it will perform better. The D tek fusion is the best block out there right now, but it costs quite a bit, and really is a block that shines on a high heat load (aka quads and dual cores)

Lain D5, dangerden and swiftech both have rebranded versions of these as well as the Lain DDC (both have rebranded as well), variable version of the d5 is best since you can well change the speed it works at, especially useful for noise. A DDC with a top is the best setup from these 2 pumps, a normal DDC works great for 3/8 and a standard D5 works great for a cheaper 1/2 option.

MCR series rads by swiftech are probably your best bet. The black ice series is decent, but the MCR series is probably the best out there right now for price/performance. Thermochills are the best but you pay substantially more for them. I would get a 2x120 if you get a nb and cpu block, a 1x120 would be fine for just a cpu, especially 478, but it doesn't hurt to get a slightly bigger rad.

NB block I would also reconsider, the biggest problem with these is most of the chipset blocks are setup for a specific board and don't serve much of a purpose. Swift techs block is probably the best option if you insist on getting one.

Tubing, Masterkleer is great for the price, tygon is a bit nicer but a ton more expensive.

Reservoirs, swiftech micro res or if you want something a bit nicer the EK reservoirs are awesome.

Fans, Yate Loons are the best value at the moment.

Coolant, don't mix your metals than you don't need any. Just some distilled with some algaecide if you prefer.. a lot of people run straight coolant.. Dyes are ok... but if not watched can really just clog up your blocks.

I think thats about everything..

I've been meaning to redo that guide but haven't had much chance to get around to it.. I'll try and get something together soon.

If you live in the US I would look at petrastechshop.com for all of your stuff, they should carry everything in stock and definitely have competitive prices.

Oh, and swiftech kits are pretty decent if you would rather get a kit, and petra has some great custom kits available on the site if you would rather do something like that.

Just avoid thinks like thermaltake, zalman, even like koolance and asetek. Swiftech, ek, and dtek even danger den make awesome blocks. Laing, eheim, iwaki for pumps. Thermolchill and swiftech for rads, hw labs is pretty good too.

My intended budget was $150, but realistically I expected to pay about $200 - $225 all said and done. I believe I've met that realistic goal. Here is what I have in my cart over at Petra's:

Swiftech Apogee GT Universal Waterblock - 1/2"
I decided to go with a better block in case the WC project is a smashing success and I decide to move it over to my main computer.

Swiftech MCR-120 "Quiet Power" Series Radiator - Black
Since I've cut the NB cooler out of the mix, I can go with a 1x120 and save 15 bucks or so

Laing D5 Basic/D-Tek/Danger Den D5 Inline 12V DC Pump
I decided to not go with the variable since I don't mind noise.

Swiftech MCRES-MICRO Hi-Flo Reservoir
Those EKs are pretty nice, but all I need is a box to hold water.

1/2" ID (3/4" OD) Masterkleer General Purpose Clear PVC Tubing
I went with 1/2 because that's what most of the pre-installed barbs use... I could go with 3/8 if someone would convince me it's better.

120mm Yate Loon D12SH-12 Case Fan - Black (88 CFM, 40 dBA)
I don't really mind noise, so I went for higher air movement.

Swiftech HydrX Extreme Duty Coolant
Recommended when paired with distilled water?


I'm going to buy a gallon of distilled water at the grocery store and some clamps at the auto parts store cause they're a lot cheaper. That should put my total somewhere around $210. Good enough for me Am I missing anything?

If you want to keep cost to a minimum (looks like it) you can quite easily get away with just using tap water and antifreeze.. The antifreeze works as a corrosion inhibitor and herbicide. I've been using the same coolant for about 14 months now and there is no sign of anything growing in it.. I'm pleasantly surprised Also, the copper in your loop works as a natural herbicide as well..

There isn't any real difference between 3/8" and 1/2" ID tubing, both are easily capable of passing the amount of water any 12v pump could move. In theory 3/8" hose is less likely to kink, but if you get some good stuff it shouldn't be a problem anyway unless you're tying it into knots

Good, that's another five bucks

No need for antifreeze, you have no mixed metals and have no need to worry about corrosion. I would also run distilled, its cheap and its more pure, some tap water will be perfectly fine, but who knows what is in yours and how it will affect your loop (clogs and such). Pure distilled water will work perfectly fine in your loop. Just keep an eye on levels, clarity even, make sure to clean everything well before you build your loop, leak test out of your case, and then change the water every couple of months and you will be golden.

Looks like good build, and although its a bit more now, it will last you quite a while.

Just make sure your tubing fits the fittings.. the parts should say what ID/OD tubing fits on them... 1/2" barbs? 1/2" ID... simple as that...

Looks like you already took that into account, but I'm just reaffirming it.

Ya, seems the reservoir and radiator are the only things that don't have 1/2" barbs. I think its standard on both, but upgrading to metal 1/2" barbs wouldn't hurt either.

Order placed with a few minor modifications, nothing changed on the main parts. Ended up just under $200 after shipping, I am pleased. Thank you all for your assistance.

Hopefully I will remember to take pictures and post the results in another thread.

The building begins...

I have the loop set up outside of the case for its test run. When I turn on the power supply everything runs fine for a while, but after about a minute or so the pump will stop and then after a couple seconds it'll start back up again, run for a while, then stop, and so on. Any idea what could be causing this? Bad pump? Poor loop design/component placement?

Does the pump need to be "downhill" from the reservoir in order for it to get enough water to pump? Right now they are about level, the pump inlet may be slightly higher than the res outlet (pump is slightly "uphill").

Any help is appreciated.