Starting my chiller project today

Well, I've finally decided to get started on my chiller. Today I'm going to experiment with brazing ducting metal. If it doesn't work I'll find another way to do it. What I am going to do is create the inner sound insulation, and flood protection.

Basically, if something leaks all over, the bed foot chest will be able to completely fill up with water. That's why I need to braze it. Hopefully it works.

Anyways, going to the store now. Getting started when I get back, and pictures will be taken ^_^

Alright folks. Got my materials. Started today.

What I am doing today is beginning my insulation for the inside of the little foot locker like chest I'm making. I am also ensuring that if by some freak instance my pumps blow, I will not damage the rugs or the flooring with potentially toxic materials. Essentially, I am constructing a box.

Materials:

26 Gauge Galvanized Steel Sheets
120 Grit Sanding Belts
Oxy-Map Torch set-up (Cheap mikey mouse setup)
Brass Welding Rod with Phosphorus powder flux coating

Step 1 :

The first thing I did was to use my belt sander with 120 grit paper to scrape the zinc coating off. I could have used a larger grit, but it was adequate to do the job. And I didn't want to burn the metal with any larger of an abrasive.

This prepares the surface for bonding. Without sanding off the coating, your filler metal will not bond.

Step 2 :

This step is really explained by the picture. I'm simply bending the end of the steel over to a rough 90 degree angle so that I may more successfully fit the other piece of steel up to it. It took a bit of coaxing, but I believe I got it right.

Step 3 :

This step was the most difficult of all. But of course, it was easy.

Making sure to put something under the steel so that I don't damage my table I went to work with the welding. Of course, its more like brazing, but you don't braze steel, you weld it.

This involves heating the steel to somewhere in the neighborhood of 2000 degrees, and then bonding it together with a filler metal; in this case a brass alloy coated with powder flux.

The job is messy, but it does the trick. If I were to try to make it look pretty I'd end up melting the steel, since 26 gauge is WAYYY too thin for that kind of job. Plus I am the customer here, and I accept that nasty job, end of story

I'm going to continue after dinner when I have more tack rod. This was really a test to see if it works, and it turns out that it does. Wasn't sure.

What this is going to be in the end is the middle layer in a sound insulation compartment. I'll build the chest so that each side has a quarter inch gap that I will fill with foam. Then neoprene will line the inside. There will be holes drilled for air flow of course.

Stay tuned.

Thanks to ImageShack for Free Image Hosting

good job, if you plan on posting a lot of pics I may see if I can get it stickied.

As I go along I'll be posting more yes.

I also finished Step 3 on the first length of steel. The heat warped the hell out of it but its workable.





Will continue tomorrow on the side.

And to answer the question should it come up.

This is going to be placed into a wooden chest The metal box is not the container.

Well back to the drawing board... Its just not feasible to braze this stuff. It warps too easily and all in all its just too difficult. The first joint was easy. But then all the warpage.... just a pain.


Instead I'm gonna just use epoxy to seal the material after the chest is built.

Money wasted 25 Bucks.

So far this is how much my project has cost.

200$, including the compressor and coils. *coughs* Gotta add another 25 for new ducting material.

thanks for the update. One of the coolest things someone here has done.

Would have been cool if it worked out. But not all projects go perfect right from the start.

Next weekend I'm going to get the chest itself started. Shouldn't take long given that its not a complex piece. Then I'll layer the foam. When it dries simply cut the pieces to fit, and epoxy them. Then line it with either neoprene, or a less dense foam insulation.

Believe it or not, I'm still quite impressed. You might wanna check and see if a local Harbo Frieght Tools has a cheap wire feed welder that uses gas for shielding- you can weld some really thin stuff with it!

Otherwise- not a loss. Depending on the size (I forget total dimensions) a poly tub from Wal- or K-mart, or even target will do the job- You don't need ultra sturdy, as this assemble is more to protect from 'flood' damage. I've seen HUGE tubs fro under $20, and a poly tub with lid is certainly easier.

This kinda reminds me of when I made my first ladder rack out of old Futon-frame pieces- it works great after 2 false starts. I tried doing oxy-mapp welding, then oxy-acetylene, and finally realized without proper training, my brazing skill doesn't directly cross over to welding- I relented and bought a wirefeed and it was cake from there.

I love this project Keep us posted.

Its a bit difficult with this metal though, its just too thin and warps easily. Even my skills and certifications don't help me. I don't have the proper tools.

I can just use metal epoxy and glue it together after installed and that'll create a seal. A tub would work, but I want to make this blend in and double as a kind of seat. That way someone comes in and they won't even know how big of a geek I am *snickers*

Just solder it instead of brazing...thats how I do safety pans for a/c

definatly a rock n project
keep us posted, and im more than willing to help with any question you may have if i can answer them! My projects consist of making my computer look slightly less ghetto and be slightly easier to lug around without water spilling everywhere or needing 5 hands.
SteveO

stickied for you.

I wasn't sure if Silver would bond with the steel well enough. But still, it'll warp under the heat. Epoxying it will work, and it'll be easier. Bending this stuff right is hard to duplicate again and again.

Can't wait for the next update

Have you consider using copper it is easy to bend and would not warm as easy and i know that it is easy to solder. if your worried about looks it could be painted or clear coated.