Peltier Water cooling Help

Hey everyone. First time poster, hope I can get some good help here. It's a long post but I felt it best to be concise.

I recently installed a peltier cooling system in my desktop. I used a gigantic Thermaltake Mozart Tx case, and set up the loop in the following order:

Logisys IceBox 5.25 UV Blue Dual Bay Reservoir
Hydor SELTZ L 35 II Water Pump (450 GPH)
Swiftech MCW6500-T-775 Thermoelectric CPU Liquid Cooling Block (Socket 775)
2 x Danger Den Black Ice GTX Xtreme 240 Radiator - Black(But slightly older, bulkier versions - can't find them online anymore.)
Danger Den Koosah Video Card Water Block (nVidia 7900GT and GTX single and SLI series)
Danger Den Black Ice Micro 80mm Radiator (Black) w/ Customizable Fittings(Again, slightly older, bulkier version)

...and back to reservior. Each of the radiators have accompanying fans in all available slots, so that's 4x120mm fans and 1x80mm active on the radiators. I have a thermal probe in between the pump and the CPU block, so I can tell what the temperature of the water at the begining of its run is. I have it set to give an alarm if the temp of the water reaches 41.0 deg C, but have no real clue what the appropriate temperature would be for me to start getting worried.

Well, first off, the reservior failed right off the bat. The sealer holding on the front of the reservior that shows through the 2 front 5.25'' bays simply failed. Attempts to reseal it ended in failure and a lot of colorful language.

During one of the times when the sealer was actually holding, and I was using the desktop, I realized one of the 120mm fans on my large radiators had stopped. Also, the temp alarm for that probe had been beeping on and off for the past few hours. I open the other side, and realize the fan on the smaller 80mm radiator is speeding up and slowing down, just on the verge of failing. I adjust the fan plugs a bit and the two fans start working again. I go to close the side panel, system shuts down. I then realize that the leak had reopened, and a decent amount of coolant had escaped. I have the inside loop perfected, thank goodness, so no liquid has ever touched any of the parts inside the case. It only leaks out the front of the case.

More colorful language.

Now the computer refuses to boot at all, and I'm wondering if I may have overloaded my 580w power supply, and that's why those fans weren't working very well.

Anyone have any advice? I'd really appreciate ANYONE's experienced input.

Overloading a PSU really shouldn't make it die, any good PSU should just have it's Over-Current Protection (OCP) trip and the unit shuts down. However, you didn't say what the PSU is..

Do you get any fans spin up when you switch it on?

Also, was there still coolant being circulated over the CPU block when it leaked? If the pelt was no longer being cooled it can go into thermal runaway, and then you're really in trouble..

Yea the power supply is a Tagan stealth series 580-watt. It's running the following components:

DFI LANPARTY UT NF680i LT SLI-T2R
eVGA 7900 GTX
Intel Core 2 Duo T7400
3x dual cold cathode kits
5x120mm LED fans
1x80mm LED fan
SATA 7200 RPM 200GB HDD
SATA 10000 RPM 37GB HDD
IDE 120 GB HDD
IDE 250GB HDD
LITE-ON 16x multi-format DVD burner
Hot swappable HDD bay for 3.5" IDE HDD's
Thermal probe for water temperature monitor

When I hook it to live power, I can see the motherboard LED lighting up, telling me its getting power. When I try to fire it up, LED's flash momentarily and then slience. I'm thinking I might need to rework power, make sure everything's seated right and nothings straining anything.

I'm pretty sure the CPU was being adequately cooled, as well, since there was still well more than half the reservior full of punping water, and the temp sensor wasn't going off at that point.

I of course need to replace the #$$%^&* reservior as well now. , as well. Does anyone know what the nominal temperature of the water should be? At what point should I get worried it's getting too hot?

The water shouldn't be above about 40C, after that the hot side of the pelt can start being so warm that it adds load to the cold side, so you end up with really bad efficiency and something that can get very warm very quick.

You could try a different PSU but I somehow doubt it's the problem, as the machine fails to boot right after the leak, right? Or did that happen some time ago?

Personally I'd disconnect everything that isn't RAM/video/CPU and see if it POSTs then.. 1 stick of RAM will do, cut it right down to bare bones. If it works, try adding one thing at a time until it no longer works or is no longer stable.. Your drives are a bit of a strain, so unplugging those from the power may help if it's the PSU.. You'll have to see.

And are absolutely sure that no water got inside the case? Not even drips running along the bottom of the res?