Multi OC Questions Thread

I hit the wall 2530 crash 230x11 temp shot to 57C from 53C and is there some reason that it runs better at 5&10(ie 225-230) than other incurments(222-228)
next can I drop the multi to ten and go up or will that cause it heat more?
or should I just run 2400 intil new cooling comes in?

Nice job on overclocks, mate.

But here are couple of ideas how to go further...

ANSWER: Your HT Link is higher than the standard/default 1000MHz's, since you raised your FSB(HTT) to 218.9MHz from 200MHz. How is this calculated? Well HT Link = HTT Multiplier * HTT = 5 * 218.9 = 1094.5MHz. Usually this is the nr #1 issue which holds back overclockers, not the CPU, not motherboard, not their RAMs. People usually say "Bah! My CPU is maxed out, can't POST higher" or "Meh! I need a better mobo, can't post with 220HT", these are bullshits. 95%+ of the motherboards could anytime pull out FSB's/HTT's higher than 250MHz from 200MHz. So your problem is that the HT Link is higher, and this is the speed between your Southbridge and Northbridge, but those chips were rated@1000MHz, they simply can't hold on speeds over 1100MHz... that's why they cause instability problems, resulting in lockups, no POSTs, reboots, BSODs and so on. How to fix this? Well you NEED to reduce your HTT Multiplier to 4x from 5x. Then this will mean HT Link = 4 * 219 = 876MHz, giving you SO MUCH headroom to overclock, as far as your CPU can hold on. You could also lower the HTT Multi even to 3x, but that's not needed in your case.Also as a note, the since I've seen you use ASUS motherboard, highly probably you're gonna find these options called HTT Multiplier or HyperTransport Speed or HyperTransport Link Speed and the options are AUTO / 800 / 600 / 400 / 200 - what these mean? Well the Auto = 5x, 800 = 4x, 600 = 3x, 400 = 2x, 200 = 1x.

So you actually NEED to surf in BIOS until you find anything related to HTT Multi or HTT Link speed or anything you can change from 5x to 4x or from Auto to 800 (HTT Frequency). Then boot up and you'll see with CPU-z that the speed is BELOW 1000MHz, giving you SO MUCH headroom, and enjoy your overclock.

Your San Diego has so high overclocking potential, you just need somewhat better cooling. What air cooling are you using? Your temps were somewhat high... not insane, but if you want to aim higher, upgrade WILL be necessary. Something like Artic Cooling Freezer 64 with Artic Silver 5 Thermal Compound, or Zalman CNPS stuff, Thermaltake BigTyphoon, Scythe Ninja, Scythe KATANA. Look forward to get these stuffs mate, you're gonna need these. They could lower your temps up to near 40-45C on load barriers, then you'd overclock the crap out of that CPU. You could up to 2.6-2.8GHz without real problems, something near 250HTT at least.

There is no REAL need to lower your CPU multiplier to 10x from 11x, because that will also lower performance. Since then only 10 * HTT and so on, you'd get only 2.2GHz... of course giving you more headroom, but this isn't your ISSUE.

You've got 2 ISSUES:

a.) You _need_ to drop HTT Multiplier to 4x.
b.) Upgrade to better cooling.

madhyena
Thanks for the great answer and info.
Will get back with you asap, gotta go look at coolers with the info you gave (again; lol).
And study/surf in BIOS, so I'll be ready to go.
I'm going to need a bigger notebook for all the info,
stats and directions, I have learned so much .

Anytime... just keep this thread updated, with how you're advancing, going further... screenies and so on.

If any other questions or perfomance issues or something cames across ... just post, and we will try to sort it out.

I found the Motherboard Specifications,
A8AE-LE (AmberineM)
Motherboard description
* Motherboard manufacturer's name: ASUS A8AE-LE
* HP/Compaq name: AmberineM-GL6E
CPU/Processor * Socket: 939
* Supports AMD Athlon64, AMD Sempron and Athlon 64 X2 processors
Front-side bus (FSB)
* 2000MT/s or 1600MT/s, depending on what the processor supports
Chipset
* Northbridge: RS482
* Southbridge: SB400
BIOS features
* 4Mb LPC EEPROM
* HP BIOS with enhanced ACPI, DMI, Green, and PnP Features Plus
Form factor
* ATX form factor, 9.6 in x 9.6 in
Memory
* Dual-channel memory architecture
* 4 x 184-pin DDR DIMM sockets support unbuffered non-ECC 4 GB 400/300 MHZ DDR memory modules
* Maximum HP/Compaq approved memory is 4 GB*
Expansion slots
* Three PCI
* One PCI Express (No AGP slot)
Video graphics
NVIDIA 6600
* Integrated
Serial ATA
* 2 SATA connectors
* Each connector supports 1 serial ATA-150 disk drive
Onboard audio or audio card
Controller: AC97 audio
Location: Integrated
Onboard LAN
* Realtek 8101L
* 10/100 Mbps LAN PHY
Back panel I/O
* One PS/2 mouse port
* One PS/2 keyboard port
* One VGA (monitor)
* One Parallel
* Four USB (2.0)
* One IEEE 1394
* One RJ-45 networking port
* One S/PDIF out
* Audio (line in, line out, microphone)
Internal connectors
* One 24-pin ATX power connector
* One 4-pin ATX power connector
* Two IDE connectors
* Two SATA connectors
* One floppy drive connector
* One CPU fan connector
* One System fan connector (also known as duct or chassis fan)
* One system indicator LEDs / power switch / reset button connector
* One each, front headphone, microphone in, line in (Aux-in)
* One front panel power and LED connectors
* Two USB connectors supporting 4 additional USB 2.0 ports
* One IEEE 1394a connector supporting one 1394a port


Clearing the CMOS settings
CAUTION: Do not change any jumper setting while the PC is running. Damage to the motherboard may result.
Clear RTC RAM (3-pin CLRTC)
This jumper allows you to clear the Real Time Clock (RTC) RAM in CMOS. You can clear the CMOS memory of date, time, and PC setup parameters by erasing the CMOS RTC RAM data. The RAM data in CMOS, that include PC setup information, is powered by the onboard button cell battery.
1. Turn OFF the PC and unplug the power cord. This motherboard has a jumper to clear the BIOS settings in CMOS RAM.
2. To clear BIOS settings, temporarily set the jumper labeled "CLEAR CMOS" to pins 1-2.
3. Wait at least 6 seconds and then return the cap to pins 2-3. When you start the PC you will need to enter BIOS setup to reset any custom BIOS settings.

CAUTION: Except when clearing the RTC RAM, never remove the jumper from the default position. Removing the jumper causes PC startup failure!
1 - Clear CMOS
2 - Normal (default)
Clearing the BIOS password
The BIOS password protects the BIOS from undesired changes. If password checking is enabled, and you need to disable it, use the following steps:
CAUTION: Do not change any jumper setting while the PC is running. Damage to the motherboard may result.
1. Turn OFF the PC and unplug the power cord.
2. Move the jumper labeled "CLEAR P.W" to pins 1-2.
3. Wait at least 6 seconds and then return the jumper to pins 2-3.
4. Plug the power cord and turn ON the computer.
5. Hold down the F1 key during the startup process and enter BIOS setup to change or clear the password.

Ya I must say you should be able to get higher then you had before. I did the same thing with the HTT multiplier, forgot to change it, my cpu was getting unstable at about the same speed. Needless to say after that fix I was easily up to about 2.7 before it became unstable, time to hit the vcore.

I just found this forum today and i have the exact same rig, I have not been able to find any custom settings in the BIOS or any where else. I have never overclocked a computer but i have been reading about it for the last year, more research than action. Any help would be appreciated thanks for informative post also.