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  Trader Rating: 5 · #16  
Old February 25th, 2007, 09:45 PM
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Ya well they may run fine with 90 degree elbows but that doesnt mean it doesn't affect performance. There is a lot of increased flow rate with 1/2" ID tubing, but without 90 degree elbows it will increase. There are also a lot less seams to worry about and its much easier to replace the tubing if you having issues with it.

And imho it does look a bit nicer not having all these random plastic connections holding your tubing together all over
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  Trader Rating: 0 · #17  
Old February 26th, 2007, 03:50 AM
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the thing with tecs, the cooler you keep the hot side the cooler the cold side gets.

if you plan to cool a 234w tec with a cpu heatsink, the hot side should hit 100c or more which can mean TEC failure.if it didnt fail the cold side will probably be like 30-40c or more, which means you will have a water heater, not a chiller.

if you water cool the hot side using a strong pump, good block, twin 120mm rad, then the hot side of the TEC might stay at 40c, maybe 30c? and then the cold side will get cold. getting the water to absorb the cold is another problem..

if you arent gonna cool the tec with a good watercooling solution then you wc setup will have better temps if you just add another couple of 2x120mm radiators with 2 fans each. all fans can be on silent speeds.

no need using a relay to activate both powersupplies simultaneously. just earth both psu's together, you can use black wires or case & connect both green wires together. the relay is just a mechanical item that serves no purpose but provide another potential cause for failure & make a little click noise every time you turn pc on. more details in the link as justin posted.
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  Trader Rating: 0 · #18  
Old February 26th, 2007, 06:36 AM
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two questions for you...

Those templates that you have printed out what program did those for you. My Radiator has a chance to kick my ass...

Also how are you going to open yours. That is another area of mine that is going to give me issues.

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  Trader Rating: 0 · #19  
Old February 26th, 2007, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justin3680
click >>HERE<< this is the link he was talking about

Thanks Justin now I see what he is refering to. Im using a 12vdc relay to turn on the second Power supply. The 12 comes from the primary ps to energize the relay. The contacts on the relay close to send the signals back to the PS to energize and latch it.

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  Trader Rating: 0 · #20  
Old February 26th, 2007, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justin3680
two questions for you...

Those templates that you have printed out what program did those for you. My Radiator has a chance to kick my ass...

Also how are you going to open yours. That is another area of mine that is going to give me issues.

I use smartsketch for all my drawings. Its easy and can convert to autocad or microstation without any problems. On the side of the computer I am going to use smoked plexiglas to cover it and it will be secured by small brass thumb screws and inserts drilled into the wood (not shown on the drawing)

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  Trader Rating: 0 · #21  
Old February 26th, 2007, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mvagusta
the thing with tecs, the cooler you keep the hot side the cooler the cold side gets.

if you plan to cool a 234w tec with a cpu heatsink, the hot side should hit 100c or more which can mean TEC failure.if it didnt fail the cold side will probably be like 30-40c or more, which means you will have a water heater, not a chiller.

if you water cool the hot side using a strong pump, good block, twin 120mm rad, then the hot side of the TEC might stay at 40c, maybe 30c? and then the cold side will get cold. getting the water to absorb the cold is another problem..

if you arent gonna cool the tec with a good watercooling solution then you wc setup will have better temps if you just add another couple of 2x120mm radiators with 2 fans each. all fans can be on silent speeds.

no need using a relay to activate both powersupplies simultaneously. just earth both psu's together, you can use black wires or case & connect both green wires together. the relay is just a mechanical item that serves no purpose but provide another potential cause for failure & make a little click noise every time you turn pc on. more details in the link as justin posted.


Thats a great idea. I have a spare water cooling block that I did not use for another project. (danger den RBX with 3 1/2 barbs).
As for the relay you never hear it. I did this with another cooling unit and it worked just fine. You still have to provide the feedback signal that power is good or the latch on the PS will not latch and the PS will shut down.

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  Trader Rating: 5 · #22  
Old February 26th, 2007, 12:06 PM
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I'm sorry to keep complaining about your water setup, but looking at it more carefully you are going to run into a lot of issues with how you have everything setup. In some of your more original drawings you had a fillport and a reservoir, there is no need, choose one or the other. Also always have the fillport going to the top barb on the T line, that way it won't affect how your water is flowing when it passes through it, you won't lose any flow with the water trying to run up the reservoir.

Also I don't quite know how you plan on mounting your TEC to your radiator, but with only once TEC and one waterblock you are better off buying a cpu TEC waterblock and mounting the TEC directly to the cpu, it will lead to the best temps.

Furthermore mount your reservoir vertical, having it sideways just makes the chances of your pump sucking in air greater, having it mounted vertically ensures the barbs are always covered in water and well they tend to be built to be mounted vertically.

Its a great idea and all, but having all the elbows and such, it all just decreases performance little by little, it keeps the water in the tube longer, letting the water warm up defeating the purpose of having the TEC in there. And if you were to watercooling your TEC you are using to chill the water then you either need another whole loop or use the same loop and warm the water up considerably. Lastly run the Loop,

Pump -> Rad -> CPU block -> T-Line/Res -> Pump. Then you do not have your chilled water flowing through the reservoir which has warmed up water, and then you don't warm up your water in the pump. Changing all these little things WILL affect performance by a rather large margin in the end.
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  Trader Rating: 0 · #23  
Old February 26th, 2007, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bball4ever39
I'm sorry to keep complaining about your water setup, but looking at it more carefully you are going to run into a lot of issues with how you have everything setup. In some of your more original drawings you had a fill port and a reservoir, there is no need, choose one or the other. Also always have the fillport going to the top barb on the T line, that way it won't affect how your water is flowing when it passes through it, you won't lose any flow with the water trying to run up the reservoir.

Also I don't quite know how you plan on mounting your TEC to your radiator, but with only once TEC and one waterblock you are better off buying a cpu TEC waterblock and mounting the TEC directly to the cpu, it will lead to the best temps.

Furthermore mount your reservoir vertical, having it sideways just makes the chances of your pump sucking in air greater, having it mounted vertically ensures the barbs are always covered in water and well they tend to be built to be mounted vertically.

Its a great idea and all, but having all the elbows and such, it all just decreases performance little by little, it keeps the water in the tube longer, letting the water warm up defeating the purpose of having the TEC in there. And if you were to watercooling your TEC you are using to chill the water then you either need another whole loop or use the same loop and warm the water up considerably. Lastly run the Loop,

Pump -> Rad -> CPU block -> T-Line/Res -> Pump. Then you do not have your chilled water flowing through the reservoir which has warmed up water, and then you don't warm up your water in the pump. Changing all these little things WILL affect performance by a rather large margin in the end.


It will be alright. Just sit back and watch.

I want the fillport to fill the system and if it begins to drop I can fill it again. That's the beauty of the system. You're not taking into account that I have already looked at this and this is why I'm doing it.

True that if you attach the TEC to the CPU you will get better cooling but also run the risk of damage to the board should any condensation occur. I wont run that risk period.

The reservoir is mounted sideways and that is why I have the fill port. I can see the fluid through the side of the case and can refill the reservoir. No air...

As for the decrease in performance I decrease the temp of the water solution (along with the additives) therefor increase the performance of the cooling system. And since they will not be in sight I'm not worried about how they look.

I have made changes to the water cooling but have not posted them. That's what I do. I'm a Project Manager and its my job to review and modify change and correct anything that could possibly go wrong. Thanks for your feed back. Keep it coming so that I do not overlook anything.

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Old February 26th, 2007, 12:34 PM
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No I don't think you quite understand the seriousness of it. Having your loop backwards will kill your performance. The rad should always go after the pump, and always have the cpu right after the rad. If you want to create a chilled loop than you should have gotten a less powerful TEC. You are just wasting it by using it to cool a loop and not to directly cool your cpu. With all the little issues and considering you have a very powerful TEC you are talking about decreasing performance 10-20C!!!! if not ever more. TEC's can work wonders but only if you use them right.

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Old February 26th, 2007, 12:38 PM
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